Care

When purchasing any dragon please refer to our health guarantee. please do your research so your new bearded dragon thrives. The care skill level is intermediate for a bearded dragon.

Enclosure size: 4'x2'x2' is the most commonly recommended size amongst breeders and hobbyists.

lighting and uvb: your bearded dragon will need a basking light, uvb light

(brand matters heavily for this one), and a full-spectrum light.

The basking bulb: should at lest be 10 inches from your dragon to avoid burns, and be in the 100-110 degree range. This is essential because they heavily rely on their environment being a cold-blooded animal. you will need An infrared temp gun for an accurate and instant surface level basking area temp reading.

The uvb bulb: after extensive research by reptile lighting experts such as tomaskas in the uk, it is clear that certain uvb fixtures and bulbs outperform other cheaper alternatives. Tests are confirmed by the solarmeter 6.5R, which is used to test the exact uv index at a particular distance and steady continuous output similar to the sun. in our experience you should only use Arcadia T5 pro 12%/14% or the zoomed reptisun t5 10.0 mounted inside only. place at least 12" minimum away from your dragon to avoid burns. the solarmeter 6.5R is a pricey but very useful tool to accurately tests for the UVI. Change bulb according to manufactures recommendations (usually once a year). overlap this bulb with your basking on the "hot side". a 24w fixture and bulb is most ideal for the 4'x2'x2' enclosure for a perfect temp gradient. do not buy a chinese made uvb, make sure its made in europe. this is not something you want to go cheap on.

Full-spectrum light: Needs to be bright around 6000-7000k is essential. This will help improve their moods and boost activity levels. The arcadia jungle dawn line is best for this, and can be the length of the whole enclosure. This light can also be used if you want plants in your enclosure since its full-spectrum.

Diet: Staple feeders should mainly be dubia or discoid roaches. Variety is key here so add in some superworms, silkworms and hornworms occasionally. crickets are a cheaper less nutritious option to their diet, so spring for the roaches as their main staple feeder. feeders should be gut-loaded with organic zucchini, carrots and sweet potatoes.(except the silkworm, they need a specific diet. use repashy bug burger once a week as well to gut load for peak nutrients. never feed the roaches anything acidic ever, as it is bad for reptiles organ function. chopped greens should be fed daily (collard, mustard and turnip greens are best). never dust greens with supplements, only the insects. Baby and juvenile dragons will need daily insect feedings as much as they eat in 5 min. fully grown adults only 3 times a week about 5 large insects to keep a healthy weight. Provide a fresh water bowl daily as well.

supplements: We use the arcadia earth pro line. it is the most advanced, and well rounded supplement program out there. The schedule is as follows:

earth pro A (calcium with magnesium): on insects once a week.

Earth pro A (dietary supplement): on every insect feeding.

Earth pro a (Revitalize d3): Once a week on insects.

Humidity and ambient temperature targets:

humidity: 25%-50% rh

Ambient temp: the basking "hot side" 86-95 F. Cool side is 75-80f. Nighttime should not be lower than 60 F.

substrate: a reptile mat that cannot absorb any liquids is best for beginners, and helps to make disinfection of the enclosure easy. as long as you provide enough branches and other stimulation. You can also use play sand sifted with a 2mm mesh net to remove any rocks that could cause impaction. bioactive set ups are not recommended for beginners.

Decor: Cork bark, grapevine branches, manzanita, cholla wood, live plants in small ceramic pots using reptisoil as the soil. removing all non-organic soil and washing the plant before putting in new soil that is reptile safe. make sure the plants you use are safe in case your dragon wants a bite. some plants can be toxic.

soak/bath: pour a warm/hot bath hot enough to where it won't burn your hand. fill a tub with water until your dragon is submerged but their head is still easily above water. soak for 15 minuets, you can use a soft toothbrush and only brush in the direction of the scales to get any poop off. rinse clean and pat dry with towel.